Rediscovering the Victorian-era paintings of Kathmandu by early British and Nepali artists Back in the day when my walls were empty, I used to buy old paintings and photos with whatever cash I had, rummaging around in Darbar Marg antique shops and Thamel bookstores. Particularly fruitful were the exhibitions at…
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A postcard from Jan Morris 1926-2020
Remembering the last surviving foreign member of the first expedition to climb Mt Everest in 1953 The last surviving foreign member of the first victorious Everest expedition died at the ripe age of 94 just prior to midday on 20 November 2020 at her home in North Wales. Jan…
Once in a Halloween Blue Moon in Kathmandu
Unlike in the West, people of the Himalaya are totally at ease with the mystery of their lunar calendar The lichened terrace wall chaffs the back of my legs and jasmine scent floods the night air as I wait for the blue moon to rise. The gradated rosy glow of…
The Himalaya mourn a saintly leader
The Tengboche Rinpoche was a constant source of saintly support, presiding through periods of prosperity and disaster In the midst of the galloping pandemic, we were recently blessed with a moment of reflective respite in the form of a beautiful date – 10102020 – rounded calm numbers to relish and…
The elephant dilemma
By following the sound science, Nepal could lead Asia in tourism best practice In the depths of central India the red rocks hung heavy in the dry April heat. The guide Bimal led us along the marked trail and tangled thorns through the prehistoric caves, solicitous that we admired the…