NEPALI TIMES, So Far So Good

Hillary’s 49th day

The climber’s ashes were scattered on waters off Auckland on the holy day of the Sherpa commemoration in Nepal High on the Valley rim I was walking through rough grass in the mountaineers’ memorial park at Kakani, in search of a suitable film location. It was a cool day and Ganesh…

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NEPALI TIMES, So Far So Good

Elizabeth Hawley 1923-2018

Elizabeth Hawley, who died in Kathmandu on 26 January 2018 aged 94 years, was an American journalist living in Nepal since 1960, regarded as the undisputed authority on mountaineering in Nepal. She was famed worldwide as a ‘one-woman mountaineering institution’ because of her systematic compilation of a detailed Himalayan database of…

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NEPALI TIMES, So Far So Good

“Tell me more …”

Liz Hawley said goodbye and thank you, then expressed surprise to be still alive the following morning Miss Hawley is hunched over her electric fan heater avidly scouring The New York Times as I enter the austere apartment in Dilli Bazar, her home since 1960. The walls are thick and…

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NEPALI TIMES, So Far So Good

Bardiya beginnings

How Nepal’s wild west was opened to eco tourism 30 years ago Today if you want to visit the jungles of Bardiya, the drive from Nepalganj airport takes less than two hours. Things were very different back in 1983 when Tiger Tops was first asked to build a camp in…

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NEPALI TIMES, So Far So Good

Returning to Chitwan

Nature has reclaimed Tiger Tops, once Asia’s best wildlife lodge Recently I visited what is left of Tiger Tops Jungle Lodge. Although yellow shafts of sunlight dappled the trees deep within the national park, and the sandy road was thick with tiger and rhino tracks, the mood was dark as…

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