Remembering Ang Tshiring Sherpa 1964-2019 One side effect of the silent skies over past months, other than tipping tourism and aviation into freefall, is that Nepal’s air safety record is greatly improved. Last week marked the sombre anniversary of the…
So Far So Good
Sorting through history for the Yeti
Whether it exists or not, this mythical monster of Himalayan folklore is Nepal’s top tourist attraction Great grey clouds steal the light and weigh down the sky — no chance of glimpsing any passing comet or rising moon. Relentless rain…
Hippie Trail nostalgia in Kathmandu
The dusty overland vans were parked between rickshaws, tiger taxis, lounging bulls and grazing goats Perhaps it’s the reflective, introspective mood brought on by the lockdown, or the re-examination of history as we seek to define Nepal’s border limits, but…
The wild and wonderful Bill Gavin, 1936-2020
From a life of Himalayan white water rafting, to motors, music and movies “Oh dear, look what happened to my pants!” We pulled onto the beach and Bill clambered out of the big rubber raft having just emerged from one…
Ode on unlocking
Nature is settling into the hollow spaces of the lockdown No-one forgets there is a lockdown going on, but you could be forgiven for believing the Valley is a beyul cloaked in emerald, a sanctuary freshly washed with unseasonal downpours, the air unusually…




