Liz Hawley said goodbye and thank you, then expressed surprise to be still alive the following morning Miss Hawley is hunched over her electric fan heater avidly scouring The New York Times as I enter the austere apartment in Dilli Bazar, her home since 1960. The walls are thick and…
So Far So Good
Bardiya beginnings
How Nepal’s wild west was opened to eco tourism 30 years ago Today if you want to visit the jungles of Bardiya, the drive from Nepalganj airport takes less than two hours. Things were very different back in 1983 when Tiger Tops was first asked to build a camp in…
Returning to Chitwan
Nature has reclaimed Tiger Tops, once Asia’s best wildlife lodge Recently I visited what is left of Tiger Tops Jungle Lodge. Although yellow shafts of sunlight dappled the trees deep within the national park, and the sandy road was thick with tiger and rhino tracks, the mood was dark as…
One day of life in the jungle
Long before the term ecotourism was coined, an initiative in Nepal rooted in conservation and community was hailed as one of Asia’s best “Welcome to Tiger Tops. We’ll be leaving on the elephants for a jungle safari once the aircraft has departed, so please wait in the shade.” I greet the…
Gaida Sahib
Andrew Laurie, Chitwan’s Rhino Man, did pioneering research into the endangered animals We thread our way between the thinning trees along an earthen trail back to Andrew Laurie’s research camp near Sauraha on the edge of Royal Chitwan National Park. Not more than a couple of tents and a wood hut,…