In her last column, Lisa Choegyal takes us on the Trans-Siberian Railway during the Soviet days It was my Dr Zhivago fantasy period, and I had this wild idea that it would be compelling to travel solitary by surface all the way…
So Far So Good
Collateral benefits
‘Bravest of the brave, most generous of the generous, never had country more faithful friends than you…’ Twas the night after Christmas 1993 and we all thought the bumps were just someone else going to the bathroom. Next morning downstairs…
Nepal’s history through art
Rediscovering the Victorian-era paintings of Kathmandu by early British and Nepali artists Back in the day when my walls were empty, I used to buy old paintings and photos with whatever cash I had, rummaging around in Darbar Marg antique…
A postcard from Jan Morris 1926-2020
Remembering the last surviving foreign member of the first expedition to climb Mt Everest in 1953 The last surviving foreign member of the first victorious Everest expedition died at the ripe age of 94 just prior to midday on 20…
Once in a Halloween Blue Moon in Kathmandu
Unlike in the West, people of the Himalaya are totally at ease with the mystery of their lunar calendar The lichened terrace wall chaffs the back of my legs and jasmine scent floods the night air as I wait for…




