NEPALI TIMES, So Far So Good

Infectious enthusiasm for travel

Typhoid is just another part of Nepal’s adventure tourism package There is never a good moment to contract typhoid, and I’ve had it three times in Nepal. With a two-week incubation period, many different strains, and highly contagious through shit and spit, I never did work out where I picked…

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NEPALI TIMES, So Far So Good

Wintering in Mongolia

“I don’t think we get many tourists at this time of year.” The Mongolian airline official looked doubtfully at the lines of stocky Mongols lined up at the Hong Kong airport check in desks. “Mostly only foreigners coming for business. Winter in Mongolia. It is cold.” In Ulaanbaatar it is dark when…

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NEPALI TIMES, So Far So Good

Hillary’s 49th day

The climber’s ashes were scattered on waters off Auckland on the holy day of the Sherpa commemoration in Nepal High on the Valley rim I was walking through rough grass in the mountaineers’ memorial park at Kakani, in search of a suitable film location. It was a cool day and Ganesh…

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NEPALI TIMES, So Far So Good

Elizabeth Hawley 1923-2018

Elizabeth Hawley, who died in Kathmandu on 26 January 2018 aged 94 years, was an American journalist living in Nepal since 1960, regarded as the undisputed authority on mountaineering in Nepal. She was famed worldwide as a ‘one-woman mountaineering institution’ because of her systematic compilation of a detailed Himalayan database of…

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NEPALI TIMES, So Far So Good

“Tell me more …”

Liz Hawley said goodbye and thank you, then expressed surprise to be still alive the following morning Miss Hawley is hunched over her electric fan heater avidly scouring The New York Times as I enter the austere apartment in Dilli Bazar, her home since 1960. The walls are thick and…

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